Cosmetic/Aesthetic Mods

Please be sure to read the Warnings page before doing any changes to your amp.
"...Pulling the chassis and poking around inside the amp however is dangerous deadly dangerous...."

(Credit to dudey5691 and 311ZOSOVHJH)
Amp Pilot Light Jewel Replacement
Users interested in changing the color of their amp light will need to do some [[#|electrical work]] (not really difficult or dangerous). The LED in the amp is red (some older models have white), so even if the jewel light is changed, it will just be a different hue (blue jewel would be purple lgiht). If this LED is changed to white (or something else), a user can replace the jewel light to have whichever color light they choose.
It (color) varies, and all you need to do to check is remove the jewel and power the amp up, so the light turns on

Edit by Sadistic_Sponge: Just pay close attention to your forward voltage and current limits here. Use this tool: to make sure the VK's stock 1k resistor is sufficient for the LED. For the 50 watt models voltage is 17V, while the 100 watt model has 33V. Also be wary of the brightness- 500MCD was not bright enough, but 10,000MCD was bright as hell! Lastly, Look at the old VK LED and how it is bent- make sure yours looks the same, and that the anode/cathode leads go into the right hole (the "insides" of the LED will look similar when you line them against each other).

Metal plate with wings removal
Unscrew Peavey logo screws first then remove logo. Unscrew remaining screws holding metal plate in place. Pull plate out and replace logo and screws.

Metal plate with chrome finish [[#|Credit]]: Nik Player (sizzlingbadger) 24th Feb 2011

Preamp Tube Shields
Remove logo, plate and mesh. Push down then turn and pull up on shields for removal.

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Combo to Head Directions

(credit Jason43)
Its pretty straight forward. Just keep in mind, while its certainly not hard to do, there are some parts that might be difficult for someone who's never done this sort of thing before(applying the tolex, cutting and shaping the metal grill, using power tools without losing a finger).

The first thing you need to do is gather supplies. Lowe's and Home Depot are your friends here. I used 2'x4' sheets of birch, I believe it took two of them. You'll also need wood screws, [[#|wood glue]], a few "L" brackets(not necessary, but a good idea), Tolex(I used imitation leather from walmarts fabric section), spray adhesive, black spray paint, metal mesh(ebay), corner bumpers, feet and a handle(also from ebay).

I measured the width and depth of the 212 and used the height of the VK100 head as a ballpark for making the cabinet. When you measure and cut, you want to do so that the sides of your new cab will fit between the top and bottom boards, instead of being attached to the ends of the top and bottom boards, like this:


Not like this:


The reasoning for this is so the cabinet can support any weight that's set on it. Cut your boards, measure twice, cut once. You'll want to add a bead of glue to the joints and screw the boards together. You won't need to clamp the glued parts, the screws will do that. You'll want to slightly recess the head of the screws into the wood so that when you round off the edges of the cabinet, you're not hitting the screws. I also added the L brackets to where the bottom board meets the sides. You can't add these to the top since they'll interfere with mounting the amp. Fill the holes from the screws with wood putty. Make sure everything is square and let the glue dry overnight.

When its dry, you'll want to start rounding off the edges of the new cabinet. You can do this with a sander, which is a pain in the arse, or a router, which is significantly less of a pain in the arse. Its a good idea to have the new corner guards on hand when you do this so you know how much material to remove. Pull the amp out of the old cab and fit into the new one. Line it up properly and drill the mounting holes. There are 4 screws that go through the top and 4 that mount from underneath, right above the speaker jacks. Remove the amp and set aside. Paint the inside of the cabinet black.

You can now start on the covering. This can get a little tricky. Working on a large flat surface will make things easier. You'll want to cut a piece that is long enough to wrap around the entire cabinet. It's also much easier to work with if you trim off any that you don't need in advance. I cut a piece that was about 6 inches wider than the width of the cab, which leaves you enough to wrap over the edges and into the inside of the cabinet. You want to start applying the covering on the middle of the bottom of the cab, where the seam will be the least obvious. Spray on some adhesive on half of the bottom board and apply the covering. Flip the cab over so the bottom is laying on the work surface and spray the adhesive on the side of the cab. With the covering laying flat on the workspace, flip the cab over on its side so that the section you just sprayed makes contact with the covering. Use the flat work space to help apply the covering. Keep the covering tight as you go. Do each side one at a time until you get back around to the bottom. Spray the remaining section of the bottom and apply the remaining covering. I'm not sure what the proper way to do the seam is, but I left about 1/4 of an inch overlap where the two ends meet. I have no idea how the pros do this without a seam. Start applying the adhesive to the edges and fold the covering over to the inside of the cab. I used a staple gun to attach the covering to the inside of the cab. Trim any excess from the corners.

You can now mount the amp in the cabinet. You'll need to remove the reverb tank and mount it in the new cab. You'll want to paint it black before you do so. I also removed the tube cage since it was no longer needed. I think it looks better without it.

For the grill, I cut a piece of wood that was the same size as I needed the grill insert to be. I cut the mesh a little larger and laid the wood on top of it, bending the edges of the mesh around the wood template. Once the edges are bent upward, remove the wood and insert the grill into the cabinet and attach. Attach the corner guards, handle and feet. I later mounted a vinyl covered faceplate shown below.

It is a good idea to tape the bottom of the cab top with AC aluminum duct tape to shield the open side of the chassis. (credit cap47)

For those interested in doing this: (credit gtr_101)

What you need:
Wood, enough to make the the enclosure, panels, and supports.
An amp
Hardware (handle(s), corners, and rubber feet)
Access to some sort of saw.
Stain or tolex.
Black Paint.
Wood Screws.
Drill bit slightly smaller than your wood screws.
Wood filer or putty. (if preferred)

First, Take the amp out of it's original enclosure. Measure, measure again, and measure again. You want to give it enough room to be able to slide in easily but you don't want any bad gaps. You want enough room to be able to remove the tubes, so make sure the height you choose will allow for this.

Second, Make all the pieces.

Third, This is very important for making it right. Take the two sides, and glue them to the Top piece. Leave the bottom piece out for now.

Fourth, Once you've glued the sides to the top, it's time to mount the amp. All amps are different how they are mounted, depending on if they are top mount or bottom mount. Mine was top mount so that is why i glued the sides to the top. Now place the amp in the enclosure, and line it up how you want it. Now some people will have enough room just to drill through, I didn't. What i did, was take four nails, and tap them in the wood a little bit through the other side of the amp. Then i removed the nails and the amp, and drilled a hole where the puncture was made from the nail.

Fifth, Glue the bottom to the sides. Line it up and glue.

Sixth, Sand, Sand everything flush and nice. IF YOU WANT TO ROUND THE CORNERS, OR EDGES, HERE IS THE TIME. Round your corners either by hand, or with a palm sander.

Seventh, Screw the wood screws in. Pre drill the holes (not to close to the side because this will affect your edges.) Use a counter sink bit to counter sink the screws a little. Then place your Screws in, If you don't want your screws to show, get some wood filler or putty and put it over the screw.

Eighth, Tolex or stain. Tolex is quite expensive, but if you go to joann fabric and get vinyl it's only about 12 bucks a yard. If you don't have experience with tolexing, research it and practice on pieces. For Staining, use 220 sandpaper to get it nice and smooth, then stain.

Ninth, Paint the inside black. You do this so if you do have any gaps, they won't show through.

Tenth, Install the handle and rubber feet.

Eleventh, Put the amp in, and the panels.

If you Choose to you can cover the panel with grill cloth.
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gtr_101's VK after conversion atop an Ampeg 4x12.

(credit Raijouta)
Measure the VK's dimensions, order/cut out some wood in those dimensions, if you're not chopping up your combo. If you are, just cut the pieces to the desired size. The reverb tank can either be removed completely or stored in the head.

Combo to Head Conversion Mod
(Credit Gtr_101 and Mathamology)
Another recently popular mod is to convert the 112 combo into a head. This can be done in one of two ways; you can cut the combo sies down to make it smaller, like a head (thereby taking the speaker out and running it with a new cab - 16 ohm of course) or you can remove the chassis from the combo frame and make a new head frae for it, and use the exisintg combo frame (with speaker) as a cab. Gtr_101 has started to complete the latter, using this thread.

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Mathamology's VK atop homemade speaker cabinet

(credit Beard_Face)
went to home depot and got a 10"x1"x6' piece of pine and had them cut it down there. measured, measured again, then glued and screwed. and i fit a piece of 1x6 that i had laying around for the grill. thats covered in some thick cotton cloth from the fabric store. i sanded all the edges with a handheld sander since i don't have access to a router. and i will cover it in this when i get my chrome corner guards and handle in.



cost: 6.50 for the pine
3 for the glue
4 for grill cloth
12 for vinyl
10 for spray glue

(credit ethan_hanus)

Jason43's 212 head conversion:

Cab Info with the VK Head (credit Cap47)
The 212 and the head have 4, 8 and 16 ohm settings. So you have to know what that cab impedance is. If it is not listed you can plug a cord to the cab only and measure the resistance across the outside of the plug and the center of the plug. It will be a ballpark figure and not measure exactly 4, 8 or 16 but whatever it is nearest. Example: My 16 ohm speaker measures 13.8 with the multimeter. I think the 212 does not cut off the internal so you could use a 16 ohm cab and set selection to 8ohm because the parallel of 16 and 16 together is 8ohms. If it were series it would be 32ohms. If it cuts out the internal speakers set it at cabinet rating. The cabinet cannot exceed 16 ohm but can be 8 or 4 ohm in this case.

Here is a simple rule to follow for amp safety: Most amps can tolerate one step down in ohm mismatch and some can stand a step up but it is hard on the OT when the mismatch is higher ohm than rated. When going down a step mismatch in ohms it is harder on the power tubes. Power tubes are a lot cheaper than replacing the OT.

Link to old Vk combo to head conversion:

NOTE: Just to clarify:

112 Model DOES cut the internal speaker when connected to an external cabinet.
212 Model DOES NOT cut the internal speakers, and so the extension cab is wired in parallel with the external cab. This means that if you combo is set to 16 ohms load with no external cab attached you must attach an external cab with a load of 16 ohms and and set the selector switch to 8 ohms (this is because the total load halves when connected in parallel (2x 16 ohm loads (one internal, one external) in parallel = 8 ohms total).

Changing the front to a "see through" front and illuminating the head

After some electronic mods (BIAS pot, test jacks and Mesa Mod) I decided to give the amp a unique look also. The complete front panel has been replaced by acrylic glass and is now illuminated by this lamps computer case modders are using. The writing on the front is the name of my band. A very cheap mod with a lot of "impact". Looks great, I think: